We did it! After 24 hours and almost 1,200 miles in our honeymobile, we dropped the car off and headed to Kauai.
Here's a map of our journey, which we would highly recommend should you find yourself on the South Island with 12-14 days free. We can't take credit for the itinerary (thanks, TripAdvisor community!), but it was the perfect balance of adventure and relaxation.
After nearly two weeks on the road, it was time for our last few stops in this amazing country. Our glacier high carried us to Arthur's Pass, where we'd spend a night at the Wilderness Lodge and have one of our best meals thus far. Seriously, for having low culinary expectations (we anticipated something England-y - generic with lots of mayo), NZ knocked it out of the park! Fresh fish and vegetables, beautiful presentation... it's been a delight. Katie could print an entire photo series of food; here's a taste.
Alas, it was time for our last bit o' mountain highway as we headed back to Christchurch. We made time for a short stop at Castle Hill, which the Dalai Lama dubbed a "Spiritual Center of the Universe" when he visited in 2002. It was quite impressive - the massive rocks are remnants of limestone left from 30-40 million years ago, when most of present-day New Zealand was covered by sea.
New Zealand has a fascinating history. We (er, Katie will just speak for herself) wasn't familiar with the supercontinent of Gondwana that formed much of our continental landmass, including South America, Africa, India, Australia, and New Zealand. New Zealand separated between 100 and 85 million years ago, forming the Tasman Sea and creating a separate landmass that took 30 million years to reach its present width!
And if that doesn't excite you, the town of Franz Josef (where we visited the glacier) sits on the Alpine Fault line where Pacific and Australian plates meet, causing earthquakes at regular intervals. The mean interval between large earthquakes is 330 years, and the last one was in 1717. Soooo, let's just say we're thankful we missed that one. There's a great article about New Zealand's geological history here.
On we went to Christchurch, where we checked into the lovely Hotel Montreal (second French establishment on our honeymoon, naturally) and Blair learned that there was a Rugby League World Cup quarterfinal in town that evening. We got last minute tickets and prepped with Pimm's Cups and a few rounds of croquet in our backyard court (lawn?).
Pimm's and Croquet @ Hotel Montreal, Christchurch
#RLWC17: Tonga vs. Lebanon. Tonga had upset New Zealand in the previous match and was by far the favorite. We flooded the stadium into a sea of red and watched with excitement as the match heated up. Katie attempted to provide commentary from her BC days, but the play didn't look familiar - there were no scrums following a tackle, nor line-outs. While we initially chalked it up to her age :), we learned that Rugby Union and Rugby League follow two different sets of rules; Rugby League is designed for a faster pace of play, and omits much of the scrum play to keep the ball moving.
Tonga was victorious (yay for the home team!), even though Lebanon got the short end of a few calls.
Rugby League World Cup 2017 - Quarterfinal: Tonga vs. Lebanon
The following morning, we packed up and readied ourselves for a wine tour, our last activity before the flight that evening. We'd hired a driver to take us to four wineries in the Waipara region an hour north of Christchurch. John was incredibly friendly, and we had great conversation between stops for Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc. Our tour concluded with a stop at Pegasus Bay winery, where we sipped espresso drinks on bean bag chairs overlooking a pond, soaking in the sunshine and preparing for the close to Honeymoon, Part I. We could hardly believe there was more to come, and yet, Kauai awaited us!
Terrace Edge Winery, Waipara Region
Next up on our itinerary - a 4-hour ride to the quaint town and Franz Josef, where we'd booked a helicopter ride and hike on a glacier! We woke up a bit sore from the previous day's hike, so the car ride was welcomed.
As usual, our journey took many turns and we stopped for a few walks and waterfalls. The second half was up the west coast of the country; though it was a bit cloudy, we found picturesque beaches laden with driftwood.
The day was full of roadside highlights, including a coffee break in Bruce Bay, where we got delicious flat whites from a truck outfitted with high-end espresso equipment. The second was a lunch stop based on something Katie had read on TripAdvisor. The noted "establishment" (a loose term based on its appearance) was Curly Tree Whitebait Company, a shack set off the highway and accessed via dirt and gravel road. Tourists had raved about it, so we went in expecting delicious fish sandwiches. While we got our sandwiches, they were made up of 15-20 whitebait - long, skinny fish with little blue eyes. Our host mixed them with egg and put two patties on the griddle, served them face-up (literally) on a piece of buttered toast, and we tested the limits of our culinary exploration. While the taste was good, we're not sure we can recommend in good conscience.
Curly Tree Whitebait Company
The next day brought somewhat cloudy skies, but we were hopeful that it would burn off in the morning sun. Our heli-hike was scheduled for 11:40, and at check-in we were informed that the flight was on hold due to low cloud cover; additionally, no flights had gone out that morning. We waited for another hour until we received the official word that our flight had been canceled for the day :( While we were disappointed, we quickly rescheduled for the following day to give ourselves another shot.
We decided to use the remainder of the afternoon to hike to the base of Franz Josef Glacier; if we couldn't see it from the air, we'd at least see it from the ground. The glacier is in a period of retreat, so we couldn't get especially close lest we get hit with falling ice boulders (seriously). This marks a stark contrast to what tourists have done for over a century, hiking up the glacier from its base. Sadly, it's been retreating at such a rapid rate that it's no longer possible; had we stood in the photo below in 2008, the glacier would have been underneath us.
Franz Josef Glacier from the valley walk
It was eye-opening to learn about changes to the glacier, particularly over the past 9 years. The Franz Josef website has an incredible time-lapse video showing the retreat, and scientists estimate that it will retreat 5km by the year 2100. If you're interested, we would highly recommend the documentary Chasing Ice, which we watched that evening back at the hotel. Following our hike, we treated ourselves to amazing massages at the Te Waonio Forest Retreat, which soothed our aching muscles and prepared us for our adventure the next day.
That's right, the heli-hike happened! The skies shone blue and we got up in the air mid-morning, when our trusty helicopter pilot delivered us to a tiny (and frighteningly icy) landing pad atop the glacier. We spent the next 3 hours frolicking around behind our guide, Ross, as he cut steps through the ice and talked about glacier formation, movement, and climate change. Fun Fact: Franz Josef is the steepest and one of the fastest-moving glaciers in the world, moving up to 5 meters per day.
There are SO MANY amazing photos from this glacier, we could fill an entire book from this tour. Here's a few, more on our Photos page:
After our delivery back to town, we got on the road for one of our final stops in New Zealand, Arthur's Pass. But not before a pitstop in adorable Hokitika - I mean, look at this sign, right?
Town name made from driftwood, Hokitika
We're officially into the second full week of our honeymoon, and we have to say, it feels GREAT. We're both (finally) healthy and are enjoying both the adventure and R&R that's come with this territory. There are a lot of people to thank back home for that, and we certainly will when we return.
Following our "adrenaline" and "farm" stops, we headed to our next stop that would originally have been called "lake", but shall now be called "ohmygodwhereisthetopofthisdarnpeak" (more on that later). Driving north past Queenstown, we made a quick stop in Arrowtown, a petite gold mining village that looks like it could stage an episode of Westworld. After poking around the greenstone (jade) stores, we had an amazing lunch at Akarua Winery, and continued on to Wanaka.
Lemon posset, Akarua Wines & Kitchen, Lake Hayes
Wanaka (WAH-nuh-kuh) is a popular ski and summer resort town, and we'd booked a lovely Airbnb about 10 minutes from the center. Our hosts were environmental artists, and our lodging was literally in their art studio (Martin Hill Studio) - a standalone residence with floor-to-ceiling windows to take in the light and mountain views. It was spectacular, and afforded a wonderful opportunity to try some night photography. We wandered outside our first night, shot six or seven frames, and were delighted to find that we not only captured a satellite streaking across the photo, but also a shooting star! The pic is on our Photos page.
We'd decided to do a hike the next morning, and since the most popular hike (Roy's Peak) was closed for fawning, we opted for the suggested alternative of Isthmus Peak. Now, while we don't consider ourselves in the best shape of our lives, we're certainly capable of hiking reasonable distances and feeling good about it. Isthmus Peak threw us for a bit of a loop (many loops, actually), and turned out to be quite a strenuous 5 miles up steep inclines nearly the whole way. Fortunately it was a gorgeous day out, but this also meant cloudless sun with no cover. The hike also presented many false peaks that looked like the top, only to learn there was much more work to do. We used every bit of 3 hours to reach the summit nearly a mile up, but had a great time doing it! Out of sheer coincidence (or shear coincidence, as Kiwis might say), we met another honeymooning couple from our same neighborhood, and hiked with them the majority of the way. Look for this photo in the Jamaica Plain Gazette:
We also met another friend whom we hope to see back in Boston:
After soaking in views of the Southern Alps and two lakes (Hawea and Wanaka) that are split by the peak, we headed back down, passing a number of cows that had unsuccessfully disguised themselves among the bush.
We rewarded ourselves with dinner at Ode, a hip new restaurant (recommended by our hip new artist friends, natch) serving "conscious fare" sourced locally. Tuesdays are whim nights, where the chef experiments with new dishes and guests provide feedback on pen and paper. A fun way to end our very tiring day!
With our adventure appetite satiated, we headed south toward Te Anau (tee ah-now) for a few days in Fiordland. Our accommodation would be at Dusky Ridges, a beautiful B&B set on 1,000+ acre farm and the first place we booked for our honeymoon. The hosts, Win and Henrik, are the most darling couple. Win is a fifth-generation NZ farmer, and wasted no time introducing us to her flock of sheep, deer, goats, and alpaca, and sharing details about farming practices. We received a warm (noisy) greeting, and Blair formed an instant bond with baby goat Elsa.
We'd reserved The Chalet, a guest house with a private entrance and views of rolling mountains and pasture. Inside, we were delighted to find a host of homemade goodies and personal touches, including a fresh-baked loaf of brown seeded bread, a slice of homemade carrot cake, and a bottle of local Pinot Noir to celebrate our marriage.
We headed out early the next morning to catch a 7:45am small group tour to Milford Sound, which Rudyard Kipling dubbed the "Eighth Wonder of the World". The sound (er, fjord) did not disappoint, nor did the trip to get there. Katie's camera was busy as we drove toward, around, and through towering mountains in our path. New Zealand's scenery is truly influenced by the ice age, as there are numerous U-shaped valleys (or glacial troughs) with steep, straight sides and flat bottoms formed by glacial movement. They are awe-inspiring and so beautiful.
After a number of stops to take in the scenery and stretch legs (including one for morning tea and freshly baked scones!), we reached Milford Sound and boarded our cruise ship. No photo will do these views justice, but we certainly tried our best. Blair marked up a photo to show scale, which is the only way we can describe how MASSIVE these crags were!
The weather was absolutely perfect with crystal blue skies, and we had an incredible day.
And in closing, a fun fact courtesy of Mr. B. Lapointe: Our drive to Te Anau took us to the southernmost point that either of us has visited, at (-45.6702972,168.2397825). Dome Cafe, you make a delicious flat white and now hold a special place in our hearts.
Has it really been nearly a WEEK since our last post?! As Blair reminded us, in the last update he was ill with a sore throat, so y'all are probably curious about his prognosis (or at least feigning curiosity?). Time to play catch-up!
Act I: Queenstown
Before our trip, Queenstown was oft-referenced by friends as their favorite town in New Zealand. With a self-proclaimed reputation as the "adrenaline capital of the world", it has everything you could possibly desire to raise your heart rate and give your parents nightmares back in the States. It turns out that's not far from the truth, though we played it relatively safe... with one exception.
Our first day was spent careening through treetops on a Ziptrek Ecotour - Blair's first experience with zip lining, and home to the world's steepest zipline reaching speeds up to 70 km/hr! Our guides were fantastic, with equal commitment to their guests' enjoyment and education about sustainable living. Through the trees we were treated to panoramic views of Lake Wakatipu and the surrounding towns - the sun was shining, the temps finally reached 70+ (Fahrenheit, (5/9)F-32 doesn't readily compute), and it couldn't have been a better day to fly through the skies.
Swinging from the mountaintops. Ziptrek Ecotour, Queenstown, NZ
On our second day we opted for an aquatic adventure - arguably not the best choice for someone on the tail end of a head cold (Blair) or someone who dislikes water/being cold (Katie), but when in Queenstown, eh?
Our white water rafting trip started with a quick bus ride to the Shotover River, where we were outfitted with gear and continued our 30-minute journey through Skippers Canyon. Skippers Canyon - sounds like fun, right? Something you might find at Disney World, maybe a spinoff of Pirates of the Caribbean? In stark contrast, the road down the canyon is rated either the first or sixth deadliest road in the world (we don't recall but if it's top twenty, does it make a difference?), and one on which insurance is exempt. We felt quite safe with our driver, but WOW - don't look down! After arriving safely at the rafting start, we got in our raft (front seats, of course) and had a lovely trip down the river, spying a plethora of hairy goats that were bounding all over the mountain. A most interesting nugget was the gold mining equipment left along the river from the 1800's rush. Evidently it's forbidden to remove and part of New Zealand's history, and it was quite cool to see the buckets, wheelbarrows, and other equipment that fueled the influx of NZ habitation. There were no raft flips, but four icy hands as the weather had been quite chilly.
Following a quick sauna at the rafting centre, we headed to our hotel and Blair opted for a quick nap while Katie fulfilled her desire to see furry native creatures - namely, the kiwi! Following the live kiwi feeding and conservation show at the Kiwi Birdlife Park, we reunited for a delicious dinner at World Bar.
And on the third day, we rested.
Kidding! Katie booked a bungee/swing through a canyon! While Queenstown is the veritable home of bungee jumping, Katie found the canyon swing to be more approachable, as the ride ends with a graceful swing vs. bouncing like a fish on a hook. So, we took a bus back out to the river with Shotover Canyon Swing, stepped onto a 109m platform, and Katie free-falled (free-fell?) and swung over the river we'd rafted the day prior. While it was an incredible experience, it was pretty much guaranteed to be once-in-a-lifetime when Katie fell ill with vertigo that evening :-/ Regardless, she will talk your ear off and show you ALL the videos when we return!
Falling backward. Shotover Canyon, Queenstown, NZ
While we wouldn't say this family & friends site classifies us as bloggers, today Katie definitely looks like one. Blair is battling a sore throat, so in an effort to let him sleep (and suppress the outward excitement that comes with exploring a new city!), Katie popped over to Vudu Cafe, a quaint coffee shop that's a block over from our new accommodation, Sofitel Queenstown. MacBook open, drinking a long black and snacking on oat granola with rhubarb, we are starting to look the part :)
Yesterday we awoke to a blanket of fresh snow, which gave us a new perspective on the mountains we'd come to love at Aoraki/Mount Cook. We packed up and headed out early, and after a few photo stops to capture the new landscape, we were out of the park and on our way to Queenstown!
We retraced our route beside Lake Pukaki, then headed southwest toward our first pit-stop at the Clay Cliffs. The cliffs are on private property, and you pay a $5 honor fee before opening a gate and heading another 1km on a dirt road to reach the site. Originally formed by glacier flow millions of years back, the cliffs are made of gravel and silt, and stand tall and proud. We climbed up and around the rocks for 30 minutes, then got back in the car for what would become one of Katie's favorite parts of this trip...
On our way out we were confronted with hundreds of sheep that were in the process of being herded into a new pen. Two dogs (purportedly Australian Shepherds) worked in tandem to coax the sheep down the middle of the road, alternating sides and moving the crew along. We had a front-row view as Katie's squealed with excitement and took many pics and videos. After 15 minutes, the traffic jam cleared and we resumed the drive.
Our journey took us through winding country roads and a smattering of different landscapes - some of them lush, green and dotted with cows - others snowy and mountainous - and some that whitened Blair's knuckles as we drove around cliffs and hairpin turns. One of the more striking vistas was at Lindis Pass, where the snow had covered the ground from the night before (photo on our homepage).
We carried on to Queenstown and arrived in time for dinner, where we treated ourselves to one of the "romantic dinners" that was gifted to us for our wedding. The choice was The Bunker, a highly regarded local joint serving incredibly delicious food! After splitting a bottle of local Pinor Noir and ending with a kiwi pavlova to die for, we were down for the count and turned in for a good night's rest.
Despite the rainy forecast and howling winds overnight, today started out as beautiful as ever. The sky shone blue so we decided to take a morning hike to Tasman Lake, which abuts Tasman Glacier, New Zealand's longest. There are four trails that provide different vantage points; the first gave us a birds' eye view as we read about the history of the glacier, taking particular note of its rapid retreat. From the 1990s it's retreated about 180 meters per year, with recently acceleration to between 477 and 822 meters each year. It's incredible to stand in the presence of such things and consider those who deny its cause... but we digress.
The second and third trails got us closer to the lake, and the floating pieces of iceberg came into clearer view. Blair noticed a rocky path leading down to the lake itself, which we (safely) descended and are so thankful that we did. There sitting on the boulders, we looked up at the mountains surrounding us, listening to the quiet river run as we let cold glacier water run through our fingers. It was a magical moment that we won't soon forget, and if it wasn't for a bit of weather rolling through, we would have sat there for hours. Alas, we had to make our way back.
Tasman Glacier Lake, Mount Cook Village, New Zealand
While most activities in Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park are outdoors, there are a few sources of indoor entertainment - namely, the Sir Edmund Hillary Alpine Centre, a museum that highlights the achievements of the greatest New Zealand climber and first person to reach the summit of Mount Everest. Katie was delighted to visit, having taken a keen interest in mountaineering since reading John Krakauer's novel, Into Thin Air (GREAT read). The museum did not disappoint, as we sat through a triple-header of documentaries about Hillary, Aoraki/Mount Cook history, and the adrenaline-inducing Mountaineering Rescues, which follows the Search and Rescue crew as it responds to emergency calls. 3 hours later, we emerged inspired and hungry for a tasty dinner at nearby Old Mountaineers' Cafe, followed by a sprint through downpours to our motel for the evening.
It will be quite difficult to top our experience in Aoraki/Mount Cook. Between the sleepy mountain town, the towering cliffs and mountains in every direction, and the peace that's come from walking these trails, it has quickly become one of our favorite places in the world, and we hope to someday return. Up next, the Adventure Capital of the World - Queenstown!
Today kicked off our 12-day journey around the South Island. After collapsing into a good night's (horizontal) rest, we headed out in our Rav-4 (named 'Stan'), ready for adventure. Blair quickly adjusted to driving on the left side of the road, and we only see the windshield wipers every few hours now!
First on our list was the journey to Aoraki/Mount Cook Village. It's a 4-hour trip, but if there's one thing we've learned about this country already, it's that the journey is more than equal to the destination. As such, we opted for the scenic route through the country and were treated to sprawling green landscapes, farms and vineyards, and sheep. So. many. sheep. Blair was particularly impressed by how many fences are created with trees vs. the traditional American wire and wood - a small thing, but indicative of a country that treasures its greenery.
We stopped at Rakaia Gorge and took a quick hike to a clearing, where we found spectacular views of a lake below and mountains behind. In fact, today was filled with three iconic lakes, all with a color blue like we've never seen before. Glacier lakes derive their color from glacial flour, which gives them a sparkling turquoise blue color that's rich, bright, and beautiful to behold. Blair can fill you in on the chemistry if you're interested :)
The next stop was Lake Tekapo, with a panorama of the Southern Alps reflecting in its pool. This lake is also home to the Church of the Good Shepherd, with arguably one of the most amazing views of any house of worship. How can you sit here and not be thankful for this world and its beauty?
Church of the Good Shepherd, Lake Tekapo, New Zealand
From Tekapo, we continued on to Lake Pukaki for another photo op by a beautiful lake, then on to Aoraki/Mount Cook Village. All in all, we probably stopped 10-15 times to step out of the car and pause to soak in the scenery. We'd heard about this country's landscapes, but nothing could prepare us for seeing it in person. In every direction, we found a panorama of snow-capped mountains set against rolling pastures, lush greenery, and blue skies with fluffy clouds above. We will never tire of driving here.
Upon our arrival we learned that the forecast predicted rain for tomorrow, so we quickly changed into boots in an effort to get a hike in before sundown. We chose the Hooker Valley Trail, one of the most popular in the area, and for good reason. The trail winds its way through the Hooker Valley (surprise) and over three swing bridges before ending by a glacier lake under Aoraki/Mount Cook. Due to the time and weather we got through 2/3 bridges, which was plenty to appreciate the gorgeous landscapes surrounding us. There is something particularly humbling and awe-inspiring about these mountains, and we can't wait to get back to them tomorrow. Until then, here's our view for tonight!
Aoraki Court Motel, Aoraki/Mount Cook Village, New Zealand
Today's notable establishment shout-out goes to The Coffee Club for its delicious breakfast, and Countdown grocers for the opportunity to have Blair capture this shot.
We made it to Sydney, though not with the grace or ease that we would have liked :) From a visa snafu, to a delay that kicked off contingency planning for the first half of our honeymoon, to Katie contacting Delta in-flight via Facebook messenger to ask them to hold our seats, to a medical emergency (not us) prior to takeoff in LA... the bottom line is that WE MADE IT. And, we even got a bit o' sleep. We're walking zombies, but we're very happy zombies.
Coincidentally, Katie's uncle is in town for a tech conference in Sydney, and he was gracious enough to let us stow our bags and grab a hot shower before exploring the city. While the weather left a bit to be desired, we zipped on our rain gear and had just enough time to see the downtown sights - Sydney Opera House, the Harbour Bridge, a big cruise ship... done.
After a hot meal, we bid adieu to Uncle Bob and headed back to the airport for our third flight in 24 hours - a quick 3-hour jaunt to Christchurch on our new favorite airline, Air New Zealand. Chances they'd service the US anytime soon? Seriously, this airline put US domestic carriers to shame. Their friendliness, pleasant in-flight conversation, and genuine care for their patrons is contagious; even the passengers were chatting one another up. We think we're going to like NZ and its inhabitants very much, indeed.
Sydney Opera House, Sydney, Australia
It's finally here! Five weeks after the start of our life journey, and one day before we check a HUGE item off our bucket lists. Tomorrow evening we'll set off for LA, then spend (an abbreviated) Saturday in the air en route to Sydney, Australia, then Christchurch, New Zealand. The OOO message is up - let's do this!
